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A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters

為了解決Balenciaga City S的問題，作者Rowlands, Penelope 這樣論述：

Carmel Snow, who changed the course of our culture by launching the careers of some of today''s greatest figures in fashion and the arts, was one of the most extraordinary women of the twentieth century. As editor in chief of Harper''s Bazaar from 1934 to 1958 she championed the concept of "a wel

l-dressed magazine for the well-dressed mind," bringing cutting-edge art, fiction, photography, and reportage into the American home. Now comes A Dash of Daring, a first and definitive biography of this larger-than-life figure in publishing, art, and letters. Veteran magazine journalist Penelope Row

lands describes the remarkable places Snow frequented and the people whose lives she transformed, among them Richard Avedon, Diana Vreeland, Geoffrey Beene, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Cristobal Balenciaga, Lauren Bacall, and Truman Capote. She chronicles Snow''s life on both sides of the Atlantic, begin

ning in nineteenth-century Ireland and continuing to Paris, Milan, and New York City, the fashion capitals of the world. Snow was the daughter of an Irish immigrant, who was herself a forward-thinking businesswoman, and she worked in her mother''s custom dressmaking shop before being discovered by t

he magazine publisher Conde Nast and training under Edna Woolman Chase, the famous longtime editor of Vogue. From there it was on to Harper''s Bazaar which, with the help of such key employees as Avedon, Vreeland, and art director Alexei Brodovitch, Snow turned into the most admired magazine of the

century. Among the disparate talents who worked at Bazaar in the Snow era were Andy Warhol, the heiress Doris Duke, Maeve Brennan, and members of the storied Algonquin Round Table. Overflowing with previously untold stories of the colorful and glamorous, A Dash of Daring is a compelling portrait of

the fashion world during a golden era.

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後疫情時代奢侈品牌線上時裝秀探究—以情境類型為例

為了解決Balenciaga City S的問題，作者張育瑄 這樣論述：

隨著後疫情時代的居家隔離、封城與鎖國等措施，眾多時尚部落客、媒體和明星無法出席實體時裝秀，因此數位時裝秀應運而生。時裝秀線上展演的呈現方式與實體時裝秀截然不同，疫情帶來的震撼不但沒有侷限設計師的創意，反而顛覆時尚產業看待時裝秀的角度。 本研究以Liu & Kwon(2020)歸納出的六種情境表達類型為分析架構，以時裝及配件為主要商品的奢侈品牌：Louis Vuitton、Chanel、Hermes、Gucci、Dior、Prada、Buberry為研究對象，探討後疫情時代奢侈品牌轉為線上展演之情境類型，討論其表現形式之使用，分析其情境類型與服裝設計理念是否融合。研究範圍為疫情爆發後的一

年(2020年6月至2021年6月)之間，7個品牌於官方YouTube頻道發布，總計33支的線上時裝秀影片。 研究發現：一、線上時裝秀可分為微電影呈現、蒙太奇影像、3D場景、秀後設計師座談等四種常使用的表現形式。二、微電影呈現較常與「思想的情境表達」、「溝通的情境表達」結合；3D場景則常與「溝通的情境表達」結合。三、品牌設計師所運用的情境類型以「聯想的情境表達」為最多數。四、奢侈品牌最常運用的情境類型各有不同。五、「空間的情境表達」從實體時裝秀與觀眾緊密扣連的目的，在線上時裝秀轉變為自由概念的呈現。六、由於許多品牌都是採錄播的方式，因此在一場秀中可以運用多種情境類型。七、即便在相同場景展

演，情境類型的意義卻隨著設計師欲傳達的理念而有所不同。八、「聯想的情境表達」結合蒙太奇影像的表現形式，使觀眾對情境的領會、印象更為深刻。九、在某些情況下，設計師的情感和思維比系列本身更能引起共鳴，足以對群眾產生巨大的影響。十、使用與主題關聯不明的呈現方式，或是容納過多元素會導致觀眾混淆焦點。